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General Fashion Sense

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Stop Buying Fashion Magazines

Friday, August 28th, 2009

… and go to your public library!  We’ve all seen trends come and go in a few months span – but one that we just can’t seem to shake (nor should we) is reinvention of “cool”.  It’s clear that our current generation of designers is somewhat apathetic – designing with the notion that everything has been done already, so there is nothing they can try that is truly original, just reinvention of past looks.  But think about this… in 1899 (yes, almost 20 years before the Ford Model T and 14 years before the Wright Brothers airplane) the Commisioner of the U.S. Patent Office made the claim that “Everything that can be invented, has been invented”.  Ha!  This leads me back to “cool”.  It’s not a trend – its an aspirational way of living that will never go out of style.

Classic Rock Cool

Classic Rock Cool

A note to all you designers (and fashion savvies), stop looking at the monthly trends in your fashion magazines and go check out a few books at your local library.  The collage of images here is ‘classic rock cool’ and it typifies a 1960s and 70s era in the flashy world of popular music, butyou takeaway should be… this is what “cool” was at that time.  Its much looser than the cuts and colors of the clothes – it’s the feel and the energy of the look and the time that we, as designers,  should be looking to reinvent… and you, as clothing aficionados, should be looking to wear.  Maybe this is all too ethereal for a penguin on a Friday morning, but I’ve been beak-deep in designing my new spring line (hence my 2 day absence) and this is what I’ve been thinking about.

So, before you rely on the minute-to-minute trends for your next fashion buy… see if what you’re getting/wearing fits in to your personal, modern, today version of “cool”.  Forget the hot colors of the summer for a moment and decide if those skinny jeans you’re looking at have the right energy, ON YOU… an energy you feel good about and connected to.  That’s all fashion really is or should be.

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The Gucci Family Slogan

Thursday, August 20th, 2009

“Quality will be remembered long after price is forgotten.”

Founder Guccio Gucci

Founder Guccio Gucci

This is the long running Gucci Family Slogan, and I love it.  It’s true I can look at some items out there in the marketplace and, because I know how they were made and what the materials cost, I can say that they are grossly overpriced… but what Gucci said about quality is undeniable.  A well made, original, unique, classic piece of clothing is worth any price as long as you can pay it.

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John Hughes Had Style

Friday, August 7th, 2009

Writer, producer, director, John Hughes died yesterday of an apparent heart attack. Some of you younger readers may not fully appreciate the influence that Hughes had throughout the 80s and 90s, but I hope you all have seen his classics like:  Sixteen Candles, The Breakfast Club, Weird Science, and Ferris Bueller’s Day Off.  Each one of these important films centered around a small group of kids who were somehow set apart from the rest of their peers, and often times the individuals were very different from one another – therefore sporting a wide variety of wardrobe choices.  The fashion of the 80s was already underway when Hughes got his start, but his iconic characters no doubt fueled the fire for teased bangs, oversized unstructured outerwear, and loud prints.

Pretty In Pink Style

Pretty In Pink Style

At the time, John Hughes movies helped create and hone a sense of style that was permeating throughout a generation… and looking back now, his characters and their fashion typified an entire era.

The Breakfast Club

The Breakfast Club

Whether you were a bully from the wrong side of the tracks, a goth-ish introvert, the BMOC school jock, prom queen, or a bonafide dweeb… John Hughes showed you what to wear and how to look.  These movies stand the test of time and the styles they represent will keep coming back around and around and around.  Mr. Hughes, we salute you.

Related Sidenote: Here is an awesome story about John Hughes’ time as a penpal to a young girl in the 80s. We’ll Know When We Get There – Sincerely, John Hughes

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Just No

Thursday, August 6th, 2009

The Sartorialist doesn’t always claim to be shooting great fashion choices… just noticable ones.  Here  is an example of someone stretching to reach and barely making it… and only because… look at this guy… he can wear whatever he wants.  But 99% of us would do this get-up much less than justice.

MC Hammer Short? (img•thesartorialist.com)

MC Hammer Shorts (img•thesartorialist.com)

I applaud his effort though… and I do think elements of this look are on their way back in, but cutting off a pair of Shaquille O’Neal’s Hammer Pants at the knee and turning them into nickers does not a fashionista make. The collarless neckline of the tee is great – I think that will have its place in the coming year.  I also like the pleats in the pants… and reverse pleats at that.  We’ll see this style coming back in new and different ways for men, with volley shorts and walkshorts – most guys should stay away from it in dress slacks for now though.

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Converse & A Blazer

Thursday, August 6th, 2009

When it comes to fashion, the clashing of worlds (within reason, of course) is always a source of attention.  It’s the bright purple printed tie set against the otherwise simple, clean, black  suit.  It’s the jeans and white v-neck with a pair of bright yellow Sperry Topsiders.  It’s any hint of flair contrast amidst a sea of what is otherwise expected.  Once you know that, you can understand why I love this guy:

Converse Hight Tops & A Blazer

Converse & A Blazer - (img•sartorialist.com)

He’s wearing an unbuttoned white dress shirt under a black blazer with shorts and… here’s the kicker… Chuck Taylor Converse High Tops!  The combo of a dressy shirt/jacket with a pair of short pants was a shocking contrast at one time but is now commonplace, though still very fashion-forward.  What’s unexpected in this look is the dingy old high tops on our man’s feet.  The cuffed shorts are a little out of “I can pull that off” range for many of us, but when paired with the high Chucks, I think it’s just over the top enough to work.

The Key to a look like this = Confidence.  This guy is wearing the hell out of this outfit and no one’s asking any questions.  You do the same.

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Acid Washed Jeans are back

Friday, July 31st, 2009

Did they ever really go out? Yes, I think so.  Time to fish ‘em out of the closet, maybe tear a hole or two in the knees, toss em on, grab Harlow and go.

img-celebritystyleguide.com

img-celebritystyleguide.com

acid washed jeans

acid washed jeans

Acid washed denim is not new and not revolutionary, but when its stigma conjures up visions of this girl in the white, chevron pattern fringe… it can be a little tough to wear with a straight face.  I think that will change as people like Nicole keep it up, and people like us follow suit.  Nicole can do almost no wrong in my book when it comes to style choices  She’s established herself so firmly as an “I do what i want” girl that I don’t know a fashion critic who would even really bother taking a jab at her for most of her looks.  She really can pull off whatever she tries – and she’s just the kind of person to try random things and wind up leading a charge of new trends.  Eventually, you might be able to wear this exact outfit (left) and stand tall and proud. Nope, not gonna happen.

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Sienna Miller is fun to watch

Friday, July 31st, 2009
Sienna

Sienna Miller

It’s a given, Sienna Miller might have the best street-style sense of any female celebrity. She takes chances, goes out comfortably dressed, appears to have just thrown it (whatever she happens to be wearing) on and left the house, and it almost always works and looks amazing! Of course it doesn’t hurt that she’s really, really, ridiculously good looking.  If you don’t know Sienna and/or her style… crawl out from under your rock, pull your head out of that unmentionable orifice, and take notice!  She is the adorable, funky, British, blonde actress in movies like Alfie and Factory Girl – though she is arguably more famous for her broken engagement from Jude Law after he schtupped the nanny, or for being charged as a “homewrecker” in the breakup of Balthazar Getty’s marriage.  If you ask me, she must take her relationship aggressions out on her credit card because this girl has a wardrobe to be both feared and respected.  She’s got an inharent bohemian quality about her, but it’s a more put together, classic take on freeform dress.  She knows the trends and follows them, but she will spice up an “in” look with something unexpected and contradictory to the direction of the outfit.  Well, Sienna was chosen to be the star of Nylon Magazine’s August denim shoot… and I couldn’t be happier.

Nylon Magazine has been doing Nylon TV spots for a couple years now and some of them are fantastic.  It’s great that the directors of their video docs seem to give the actors/actresses/models a lot of freedom to be themselves in the shoots, and in Sienna’s case (I would assume), even have some input on the selected wardrobe.  If you take anything away from watching this, besides 2.5 minutes of entertainment, it should be that Sienna’s varied style of dress has made her incredibly versatile… and a bit of an enigma.  In the candid interview scenes she is dressed down in an oversized, cropped sweater with a stretched out scoop neck off the shoulder over a striped tank top, and baggy, over-pleated pants. Not sure what to call this look besides eclectic, but it’s loose and comfortable and thrown together – complete with her hair tossed up into small whispy buns.  This footage is interweaved with the denim photoshoot scenes in which she’s got a more edgy, rock-n-roll, sometimes biker, sometimes punk, sometimes 1980’s Poison video chick look about her.  Here’s the thing – she pulls off both looks 100%!  Again, this could be a result of her laughably pretty face… but I think her style of dress and daily fashion choices which are constantly mixing things up and shifting from prep to punk, has allowed her to be comfortable and look natural in anything she puts on.

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Don’t Go Overboard

Thursday, July 30th, 2009

You guys know I’m definitely one for loud colors, prints, fabrics, and anything that really makes a statement.  I love spicing up a simple outfit with bright green or yellow shoes, a printed tie, or something unexpected -  it’s about the hits of contrast amidst a more subdued base.  I say push the envelope with this all you want, but know when you’ve taken it too far… and the contrast has become the predominent base.

Love / Hate

Love / Hate (img: sartorialist)

While there’s no denying this guy looks great, all the opposing stripes goes far enough to makes him quite a character.  If you make the choice to pair similar or complimentary but opposing prints, color, patterns… just be comfortable standing out in a crowd.  If you welcome attention, go for it… but know that the attention itself often appears to be your motivation.  If you desire to look great but include a little flair – this guys outfit would get there by losing any one of the three striped pieces.

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Weejuns? you ask…

Wednesday, July 22nd, 2009

Sorry, I just couldn’t resist.  Yesterday I glorified that Italian man in Florence for his stellar ensemble complete with the Weejun loafers.   I claimed that kids across the country would soon be raiding granddad’s closet like a masked Jesse James to get their hands on some original Bass pennies… and this morning I learn about this:

Mark McNairy collaborates with Bass

Mark McNairy collaborates with Bass

American fashion designer Mark McNairy who’s most well known for his creative direction at the traditional blue blood clothing company J. Press, has teamed up with Bass on this line of Weejun loafers.  J. Press is the quintessential east coast brand and has been dressing presidents, businessmen, and socialites since Teddy Roosevelt was carrying his big stick.  Founded in 1902, the J. Press style has come to be termed “Ivy League” and it caters to the waspy and proud, deliberately keeping its stuffy shop locations in  New Haven; Cambridge, Mass.; New York; and Washington.

The J.Press Look

The J.Press Look

Characterized by staples like plaid blazers and fluffy cream v-neck sweaters, the fits, fabrics, and suggested tailoring (an almost demanded 1 3/4″ break in the pant leg hem) have stayed virtually unchanged since the early days.  However, Mark’s design perspective for the J.Press line has taken the brand out of the way-too-stuffy category and placed it in the acceptable and kitschy area.  So, it’s no surprise that he was approached by Bass to put together this new line of Weejun loafers just as the craze is about to tip [says me].  The collection, due out in Fall 2010, includes the classic tassled styles and alligator (which could hurt at $3675), but it also shows some serious flair and departure for the normally subdued McNairy.  A lack of adherence to Ivy League guidelines agrees with him as he drops styles in royal blue suede with oversized white leather tassles… and classic construction pieces made out of a uneven toned,  stamped leather.

Royal Suede and Stamped Leather

Royal Suede and Stamped Leather

While I still think this trend is about to tip along more standard, classic style lines (for both men and women by the way), a glimpse at this collaboration shows me where Weejuns will go in the next few years.  We will undoubtedly see a crossover and expansion in colors, materials, and structure, much like the Sperry top-siders development… and I can assure you that grandpa doesn’t have those kinds of shoes stashed away in his closet.

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All Dressed up for Summer

Tuesday, July 21st, 2009

Let me first apologize for the short absence… I elected to take a 4 day holiday over the weekend and head down to my new time share on an ice cap just off the coast.  Did a little ice blocking, a bit of curling (or as I like to call it, ’shuffleboard on ice’), and dined at the finest krill spot this side of the Arctic Circle.

But now I’m back, and I’m ready to talk about this guy:

If your summers aren't too hot. (img:thesartorialist)

If your summers aren't too hot. (img:thesartorialist)

For me, this man is damn near perfect in the fashion and style department.  The image is from thesartorialist.com.  If you don’t know The Sartorialist, it’s a photo based blog that travels around the world snapping shots to show real people wearing fashion – a sidewalk translation of the runways.  I love doing the same thing sometimes, but my travel budget is a tad smaller than theirs, and flights out of Antarctica are tough to come by.  Their blog is huge, so if you don’t know the Sartorialist then I’m not sure how the hell you found about lil ol’ me.  Anyway, the amazing man above is the epitome of what TO DO with summer fashion if you live in a climate that allows you long pants and layering from July – September.  Short of a seersucker suit, this Italian marvel has thrown together something that most of us only dream about… a classic cool with a chic edge, in a comfortable package… all whilst appearing effortless.  The look is also timeless and generationally transcendent – he could take this outfit off his back, hand it to his grandkid, and sonny boy is an instant style stud.

I love it all.  The unstructured, tan, loose-weave single breasted sport coat… crisp, white cotton button down… chest pocket handkerchief to match… thin, but not too thin black tie that matches the…. black, tassleless, Weejun loafers… the deep navy blue skinny jeans… and a hit of eccentric style in some steel blue wayfarer shades with mirrored lenses.  Next to Superman, this guy might really be my personal super hero.

Other fashion experts and readers will take contest with the cut of his jeans.  Usually a denim pant cut this slender would be part of an altogether ‘dressier’ look, especially on an older gentleman – but I think it’s great here.  The way my hero makes it work is in his combinations and versatile options.  The look is pretty formal in a sense – just take off the shades and button the jacket.  Also, he’s had the pants tailored with no break in the hem (I predict), as they’re falling 3 inches above his shoes when sitting. This allows the look to be more formal if need be, and more fun when worn without socks.  People will also hate on his sunglasses. I love them. I own a pair just like these myself.  I think funky sunglasses are like party hats – some things you’re just never too old to wear.  People may stare at you… but damn you feel great when you have them on your head.  I can also sense some of you turning your noses up at my hero’s shoes, but I have to tell ya… the Weejun loafers are making a comeback in a big way.  Start looking for them on teenage kids who may just be stealing their first pairs from gramps’ closet over summer vacation.  The only misstep my hero makes (and I can’t even be sure because I can’t see closely) may be his watch.  It looks like a thick leather banded watch with a metal face sitting atop the wrist strap… which just doesn’t suit him.  For some reason, that style of watch always looks to me like the person wearing it is trying way too hard for that look – it turns me off.  You know this guy has to own a subdued Cartier or Baume & Mercier.  That’s what he should be wearing.  That said, I would shop in this guys closet any day!

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