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Stop Buying Fashion Magazines

Friday, August 28th, 2009

… and go to your public library!  We’ve all seen trends come and go in a few months span – but one that we just can’t seem to shake (nor should we) is reinvention of “cool”.  It’s clear that our current generation of designers is somewhat apathetic – designing with the notion that everything has been done already, so there is nothing they can try that is truly original, just reinvention of past looks.  But think about this… in 1899 (yes, almost 20 years before the Ford Model T and 14 years before the Wright Brothers airplane) the Commisioner of the U.S. Patent Office made the claim that “Everything that can be invented, has been invented”.  Ha!  This leads me back to “cool”.  It’s not a trend – its an aspirational way of living that will never go out of style.

Classic Rock Cool

Classic Rock Cool

A note to all you designers (and fashion savvies), stop looking at the monthly trends in your fashion magazines and go check out a few books at your local library.  The collage of images here is ‘classic rock cool’ and it typifies a 1960s and 70s era in the flashy world of popular music, butyou takeaway should be… this is what “cool” was at that time.  Its much looser than the cuts and colors of the clothes – it’s the feel and the energy of the look and the time that we, as designers,  should be looking to reinvent… and you, as clothing aficionados, should be looking to wear.  Maybe this is all too ethereal for a penguin on a Friday morning, but I’ve been beak-deep in designing my new spring line (hence my 2 day absence) and this is what I’ve been thinking about.

So, before you rely on the minute-to-minute trends for your next fashion buy… see if what you’re getting/wearing fits in to your personal, modern, today version of “cool”.  Forget the hot colors of the summer for a moment and decide if those skinny jeans you’re looking at have the right energy, ON YOU… an energy you feel good about and connected to.  That’s all fashion really is or should be.

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Chevignon Clothing

Monday, August 24th, 2009

Maybe I should be embarrassed to admit it, but I’ve just now stumbled onto Chevingon Clothing.

Chevignon Clothing - French Take on the US 1950's

Chevignon Clothing - French Take on the US 1950's

The French company has been around since 1979, and in the United States for about 19 of those 30 years.  Best known for their unique interpretations of American retro style, the brand was started with a take on the the “fights”, the bomber jacket worn by US Air Force pilots in the 1950s.  The inspiration of the entire brand is “The American Dream”, and you can clearly see how it’s communicated in every collection they’ve put out.

The look is something right off the backs of Josh Hartnett and Ben Affleck from the movie “Pearl Harbor”.  I love the current line, and wish it was more readily available here in the US.  The short cut of the outerwear pieces looks great on top of their neutral sweaters – and their merchandising with the hats really gives the line a fashion-forward street feel.

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Vilebrequin Trunks are Expensive

Wednesday, August 19th, 2009

Can someone sit me down and explain why I would pay $240.00 for a pair of all-over-print, elastic waistband, drawstring swim trunks?

Vilebrequin Trunks only $240.00!

Vilebrequin Trunks only $240.00!

If you don’t know it, Vilebrequin is a beach apparel company out of Saint-Tropez that’s been around since the early 70s.  They are an authority in mens swim trunks, and have kept an original and classic fit around while others strayed longer, bigger, elastic-less, and otherwise.  I’m aware that their trunks are made from Spinnaker Canvas (the material used in sailboat sails) which is novel and kitschy, but the price tag still strikes me as laughable.  I actually really like some of their artwork in the prints, but there’s no denying that the patterns they use walk a tightrope line between eccentric, and tacky as hell.  This is one of those boutiquey novelty brands that finds a niche to claim, jacks the price, and runs with it like O.J. in the Bronco.  I suppose I should be no more surprised by Vilebrequin now than I am when Louis V drops a two panel beach bag for damn near a grand… but these are trunks, hardly a daily wear. Perhaps I’m just jealous.  “But daddy, I want a 90% markup item in my line too!”

I’m not a thrifty penguin – if something is unique and well made, I will throw down for it. But these I cannot justify.  If you can, get them at Gilt.com for $80 today.  [again, email me if you need an invitation for membership.]

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Follow Up: Richard Haines

Thursday, August 13th, 2009

On Monday I wrote about fashion designer and illustrator Richard Haines, and then this morning I stumbled upon this video which was strangely posted the same day I wrote my entry.  In it, he is sketching the FW09 line for a brand called 3Sixteen.

It’s an awesome video exemplifying the greatness of freehand fashion illustration amidst a sea of digital renderings.  There’s something tangible about putting pencil to paper that I connect with in apparel design, and I loved hearing Haines’ perspective about sketching today.  He explains – “an illustrator is able to kind of exaggerate a shape in a way that a photographer can’t… I can kind of elongate. I can stretch. I can kind of manipulate things, very quickly, that I think photography can’t… I think illustrating it brings a different thing to the table, partially because I understand the details.  I understand how a garment’s made. I understand, you know, kind of how the fabric drapes and what’s important in the garment… so all of that goes into the sketch.”

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What I Saw Today…

Monday, August 10th, 2009

So I may be late to the party on this guy, but I’m just glad I was invited!   A good friend recently turned me on to artist Richard Haines’ blog -  ‘What I Saw Today’.  Haines tags the blog as “A visual record of cool stuff guys wear…and other things that inspire me.”, and it is exactly that.

What I Saw Today - Richard Haines

What I Saw Today - Richard Haines

The man has an awesome sketch style – one I’m partial too because it reminds me of a much, much, much better version of my own fashion sketchings.  Haines lives in New York and makes it his business to roam the city with his eyes open, recording what he sees today, or what he sees every day, on a sketchpad and then on his blog.  Over the year, he has worked with some of the top designers in the business – most recently doing ads and inserts for J.Crew.

J Crew Announcement

J Crew Announcement

Haines does sit-ins at retail stores and fashion heavy locations on a regular basis… sketching what he sees in the store, and what he sees on the people who enter while he’s there.   His style is just so much fun – an impressionist approach to fashion illustration that is considerably less abstract than your standard designer’s sketch.

I love it – it’s already inspired me to go back to sketching more for the development of my upcoming line.

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Just No

Thursday, August 6th, 2009

The Sartorialist doesn’t always claim to be shooting great fashion choices… just noticable ones.  Here  is an example of someone stretching to reach and barely making it… and only because… look at this guy… he can wear whatever he wants.  But 99% of us would do this get-up much less than justice.

MC Hammer Short? (img•thesartorialist.com)

MC Hammer Shorts (img•thesartorialist.com)

I applaud his effort though… and I do think elements of this look are on their way back in, but cutting off a pair of Shaquille O’Neal’s Hammer Pants at the knee and turning them into nickers does not a fashionista make. The collarless neckline of the tee is great – I think that will have its place in the coming year.  I also like the pleats in the pants… and reverse pleats at that.  We’ll see this style coming back in new and different ways for men, with volley shorts and walkshorts – most guys should stay away from it in dress slacks for now though.

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Converse & A Blazer

Thursday, August 6th, 2009

When it comes to fashion, the clashing of worlds (within reason, of course) is always a source of attention.  It’s the bright purple printed tie set against the otherwise simple, clean, black  suit.  It’s the jeans and white v-neck with a pair of bright yellow Sperry Topsiders.  It’s any hint of flair contrast amidst a sea of what is otherwise expected.  Once you know that, you can understand why I love this guy:

Converse Hight Tops & A Blazer

Converse & A Blazer - (img•sartorialist.com)

He’s wearing an unbuttoned white dress shirt under a black blazer with shorts and… here’s the kicker… Chuck Taylor Converse High Tops!  The combo of a dressy shirt/jacket with a pair of short pants was a shocking contrast at one time but is now commonplace, though still very fashion-forward.  What’s unexpected in this look is the dingy old high tops on our man’s feet.  The cuffed shorts are a little out of “I can pull that off” range for many of us, but when paired with the high Chucks, I think it’s just over the top enough to work.

The Key to a look like this = Confidence.  This guy is wearing the hell out of this outfit and no one’s asking any questions.  You do the same.

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Fun Center Fashion

Tuesday, August 4th, 2009

You may not know this, but penguins take birthdays pretty seriously – so it’s no suprise that my friend decided to spend his 30th at the classy and prestigious Mulligans Family Fun Center.  You need to get past how ridiculous the choice of this location for a 30 year old man may be, and quickly GO TO THE WEBSITE  www.mulligantorrance.com.  The fun center had a theme song professionally written and recorded for their website and it is amazing!!  Though that unnecessary expenditure could have something to do with why only 50% of the arcade games were in working condition.

To the point… the place was in Torrance, CA – quite an ethnically diverse area in comparison to my Antarctican roots.  Since the average age of park-goers was 12, I was surrounded by Torrance groms all day… and I was really impressed with their fashion sense.

Fashion @ the Family Fun Center

Fashion @ the Family Fun Center

I apologize for the picture quality (my camera was apparently on a setting called ‘crap photos’), but look at these kids!  Maybe 11-14 and they’re turning on the style charm like it’s nobody’s business.  First off, both of these guys clearly believe in the ‘fashion first – comfort second’ philosophy because it was 95º in Torrance and I was in a tank top and shorts.  The guy on the left changed an otherwise standard jeans and v-neck outfit into a small statement, with a grandpa style, printed cardigan in brown and tan.  That said, I think the fact that he had chosen a v-neck shirt alone made an impression on me.  The plain white v-neck which was once saved for older men to wear under a suit or to mow the lawn on weekends is now on the back of this kid, matched with baggy jeans and skate shoes.  The kid on the right is maybe 11 or 12 and he was outstanding.  Discretion didn’t allow me to get a full body shot, but you should know that the v-neck (again), sweater, reflective angled aviator shades, and New Era hat you see… are paired with black skinny jeans and a pair of brown loafers that you don’t see.  I was jealous of this child’s wardrobe.  What’s more, he looked so natural – not like when Will Smith shows up to an awards show having dressed his boys in the exact same outfit as him.  No, this kid looks like this on a daily basis and he wears it with confidence.

I believe we all start out creative geniuses, and over time that imaginative spirit is stifled as we learn about and perceive  boundaries and limitations.  So it’s no shock that these young people are expressing themselves stylistically, even if they are looking to their elders for influence — I just wonder how long it is until I’m buying clothes off the shelves that were the brainchild of a 12 year old designer.

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Does Usher carry a gun?

Wednesday, July 29th, 2009

One time, my girlfriend and I were in the tie department of Barneys New York in NYC… and we hear the guy standing at the counter next to us start humming and singing quietly to himself.  Dude’s voice was INCREDIBLE,  so we both look his way… he flashes a big smile.  It was Usher.   Since that day I love him, love everything about him, thinking of being him for Halloween…. BUT…. does he really carry a gun?

Usher carries a gun?

Usher carries a gun?

Before you guys hit me with a barrage of emails about how the piece he’s wearing may or may not be a travel wallet/suspenders type of thing and not a gun holster… I am aware of that possibility.  Even though Usher’s strapped, leather holster appears to be the same one Doc Hollywood wore in Tombstone, I’ll admit that I cannot tell for certain from this picture whether it is actually a glorified coin purse.  Either way, he looks like he’s starring in a new urban action/musical, Hip Hop Cop.  Glad this shot was taken for Vegas Magazine and is not candid.

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Weejuns? you ask…

Wednesday, July 22nd, 2009

Sorry, I just couldn’t resist.  Yesterday I glorified that Italian man in Florence for his stellar ensemble complete with the Weejun loafers.   I claimed that kids across the country would soon be raiding granddad’s closet like a masked Jesse James to get their hands on some original Bass pennies… and this morning I learn about this:

Mark McNairy collaborates with Bass

Mark McNairy collaborates with Bass

American fashion designer Mark McNairy who’s most well known for his creative direction at the traditional blue blood clothing company J. Press, has teamed up with Bass on this line of Weejun loafers.  J. Press is the quintessential east coast brand and has been dressing presidents, businessmen, and socialites since Teddy Roosevelt was carrying his big stick.  Founded in 1902, the J. Press style has come to be termed “Ivy League” and it caters to the waspy and proud, deliberately keeping its stuffy shop locations in  New Haven; Cambridge, Mass.; New York; and Washington.

The J.Press Look

The J.Press Look

Characterized by staples like plaid blazers and fluffy cream v-neck sweaters, the fits, fabrics, and suggested tailoring (an almost demanded 1 3/4″ break in the pant leg hem) have stayed virtually unchanged since the early days.  However, Mark’s design perspective for the J.Press line has taken the brand out of the way-too-stuffy category and placed it in the acceptable and kitschy area.  So, it’s no surprise that he was approached by Bass to put together this new line of Weejun loafers just as the craze is about to tip [says me].  The collection, due out in Fall 2010, includes the classic tassled styles and alligator (which could hurt at $3675), but it also shows some serious flair and departure for the normally subdued McNairy.  A lack of adherence to Ivy League guidelines agrees with him as he drops styles in royal blue suede with oversized white leather tassles… and classic construction pieces made out of a uneven toned,  stamped leather.

Royal Suede and Stamped Leather

Royal Suede and Stamped Leather

While I still think this trend is about to tip along more standard, classic style lines (for both men and women by the way), a glimpse at this collaboration shows me where Weejuns will go in the next few years.  We will undoubtedly see a crossover and expansion in colors, materials, and structure, much like the Sperry top-siders development… and I can assure you that grandpa doesn’t have those kinds of shoes stashed away in his closet.

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