Mens Style

...now browsing by category

Showing you what’s going on in the world of mens fashion and style.

 

All Dressed up for Summer

Tuesday, July 21st, 2009

Let me first apologize for the short absence… I elected to take a 4 day holiday over the weekend and head down to my new time share on an ice cap just off the coast.  Did a little ice blocking, a bit of curling (or as I like to call it, ‘shuffleboard on ice’), and dined at the finest krill spot this side of the Arctic Circle.

But now I’m back, and I’m ready to talk about this guy:

If your summers aren't too hot. (img:thesartorialist)

If your summers aren't too hot. (img:thesartorialist)

For me, this man is damn near perfect in the fashion and style department.  The image is from thesartorialist.com.  If you don’t know The Sartorialist, it’s a photo based blog that travels around the world snapping shots to show real people wearing fashion – a sidewalk translation of the runways.  I love doing the same thing sometimes, but my travel budget is a tad smaller than theirs, and flights out of Antarctica are tough to come by.  Their blog is huge, so if you don’t know the Sartorialist then I’m not sure how the hell you found about lil ol’ me.  Anyway, the amazing man above is the epitome of what TO DO with summer fashion if you live in a climate that allows you long pants and layering from July – September.  Short of a seersucker suit, this Italian marvel has thrown together something that most of us only dream about… a classic cool with a chic edge, in a comfortable package… all whilst appearing effortless.  The look is also timeless and generationally transcendent – he could take this outfit off his back, hand it to his grandkid, and sonny boy is an instant style stud.

I love it all.  The unstructured, tan, loose-weave single breasted sport coat… crisp, white cotton button down… chest pocket handkerchief to match… thin, but not too thin black tie that matches the…. black, tassleless, Weejun loafers… the deep navy blue skinny jeans… and a hit of eccentric style in some steel blue wayfarer shades with mirrored lenses.  Next to Superman, this guy might really be my personal super hero.

Other fashion experts and readers will take contest with the cut of his jeans.  Usually a denim pant cut this slender would be part of an altogether ‘dressier’ look, especially on an older gentleman – but I think it’s great here.  The way my hero makes it work is in his combinations and versatile options.  The look is pretty formal in a sense – just take off the shades and button the jacket.  Also, he’s had the pants tailored with no break in the hem (I predict), as they’re falling 3 inches above his shoes when sitting. This allows the look to be more formal if need be, and more fun when worn without socks.  People will also hate on his sunglasses. I love them. I own a pair just like these myself.  I think funky sunglasses are like party hats – some things you’re just never too old to wear.  People may stare at you… but damn you feel great when you have them on your head.  I can also sense some of you turning your noses up at my hero’s shoes, but I have to tell ya… the Weejun loafers are making a comeback in a big way.  Start looking for them on teenage kids who may just be stealing their first pairs from gramps’ closet over summer vacation.  The only misstep my hero makes (and I can’t even be sure because I can’t see closely) may be his watch.  It looks like a thick leather banded watch with a metal face sitting atop the wrist strap… which just doesn’t suit him.  For some reason, that style of watch always looks to me like the person wearing it is trying way too hard for that look – it turns me off.  You know this guy has to own a subdued Cartier or Baume & Mercier.  That’s what he should be wearing.  That said, I would shop in this guys closet any day!

Share

Look Mom, I’m a “designer”.

Monday, July 13th, 2009

I’m fine with all the Michael Jackson coverage – most talented and most famous musician of all time has died.   I’m NOT fine with the coverage of  Jon & Kate +8′s tumultuous relationship problems – two people whose only talent is baby-making, are cheating, fighting, and embarrassing themselves and their children.   However, I have left them alone… until now.  Until today, when I learned that Jon Gosselin (reportedly adulterous father to sextuplets, and doormat husband to tyrant Kate) is partnering with French fashion designer Christian Audigier to design a line of childrens clothing.

Jon Gosseling Hardy

Jon Gosselin Hardy

Wow. It just became apparent to me that I haven’t publicly shared my strong dislike for everything Christian Audigier.  Let’s take care of that real fast.  Even if you haven’t heard the name Christian Audigier – you’ve definitely heard of and seen his brands, Ed Hardy and Von Dutch, adorning the bodies of grossly self-conscious men throughout the country for years.  Make no mistake, Christian is a bonafied genius.  Anyone who will dispute that is just jealous and wrong.  He’s a marketing phenom and an entrepreneurial powerhouse who knows how to create “cool”… and more important to his pocketbook, he knows how to capitalize on that “cool” financially – fast and furious.  His brand Von Dutch rose to ridiculous heights in a microsecond, and the astronomically overpriced product line carried an unparalleled profit margin. He got in, got out, and made b-a-n-k!  So yes, he’s good at what he does and he’s successful… but that doesn’t mean his style is acceptable to my eyes or friendly with my gag reflex.  I think Ed Hardy t-shirt art is offensively unattractive and carries a generally unsoulful vibe.  Ok, enough bashing… my point here is not about Christian starting yet another tragic company, it’s about Jon “baby daddy times 8″ Gosselin becoming a “designer” for one of them.  What the hell??!!?

Jon Gosselin is a style maven.

Jon Gosselin is a style maven.

I was an early viewer of Jon & Kate +8 (and proud of it. I’m not scared), so I know that before Jon took his job as an unemployed adulterer, he worked as an IT Analyst for the state of Pennsylvania.  I’m sure he had a chance to cultivate his fashion sense and design perspective at that desk.  Throughout the show, we had the pleasure of watching Jon’s personal style and wordrobe choices progress from oversized cargo shorts with white Hanes tees, to oversized cargo shorts with screaming billboard Ed Hardy tees.  The pictures above illustrate some of the fashion trendsetting Jon has been doing – doesnt he look so comfortable in that brown crewneck sweater over the pink button-down?

Well Jon and Christian are teaming up to create a line of kids clothing… clearly it’s nothing more than a media stunt, crafted by the artful hands of Mr. Market Manipulator.  If you want to do something in kids apparel, and you want to make a splash the way C.A. always does, it seems obvious to bring on the overly controversial anti-daddy of the year who just so happens to be tabloid Viagra at the moment… and call him a “designer”.  The downside, from my perspective, is that stunts like this cheapen the term and the profession.

The Shawn White Inspired youtube commercial comes to mind.  It’s a self-depricating commercial where Shawn pokes fun at the notion of Target partnering with random celebrities (himself) to quote-unquote design clothing, check it out.

Share

Business or Pleasure?

Monday, July 13th, 2009

Business or pleasure?… These wooden business card holders by Japanese designer Masakage Tanno prove that at least one thing can be both.

Masakage Tanno Business Card Holder

Masakage Tanno Business Card Holder

Made from both Japanese Oak and Padouk, each case is hand-crafted in Tanno’s wood shop work studio, MIYABI.  The craftsmanship on these in unbelievable, with small hinges and detailings made from Kurogaki wood (Japanese Persimmon), and a small interior magnet embedded for the case’s closure.

Side View

Side View

The concepts clean, natural, mid-century modern feel is unique in the world of business card holders and the quality is unsurpassed.  You can see the gorgeous finishing from afar, and the attention to detail is impeccable up close.  The only place I’ve found to purchase these little wooden bits of magic is Merchant No.4, an online store for unique design objects.  I don’t know about you, but I’m dying to have one of these in my pocket… every interaction would end with me pulling a card and saying “it was a pleasure doing business with you…”.  They wouldn’t forget where THAT card came from!

.

Share

Seriously OP?

Friday, July 10th, 2009

Since it’s Friday and we’re heading into a weekend, I thought I’d send you guys out with a lighthearted story of a brands shift from legitimate purity to generic over-saturation.  Over it’s lifespan, Ocean Pacific (Op) of 1980′s corduroy shorts fame, has gone from head of the class – to absent from class – to barely auditing the class – to chewed up gum stuck to the bottom of the desks in the class.

Nothing beat 80s Op Corduroy

Nothing beat 80s Op Corduroy

I know and love this O.G. surf brand very well.   In fact my father, The Style Penguin Sr. was a President of Ocean Pacific at one point during it’s heyday… and I got to watch the brand grow from the sidelines whilst wearing an unlimited supply of hightwaisted short shorts. When ‘Velcro Valley’ was popping up in Orange County, CA – Op was at the heart of it and really leading the charge. Nowadays, Op has kind of become a characature of what the brand once meant.  Something inately California coastal is now more of a middle America take on beachwear and surf culture.  There have been some attempts at a resurgence for the real brand feel, but nothing successfully captured the essence of what it once was.  And now… it’s gotten to the point where Op is sold exclusively at Walmart, the opitome of non-coastal, non-unique, made-for-the-masses, made with no ‘love’, consumer goods.  A clothing company that once sponsored legit surfing champions like Tom Curren and Kelly Slater is now sponsoring these people….

What a difference a decade or two make.

What a difference a decade or two make.

That’s One Tree Hill actress Sophia Bush, Malibu socialite Brody Jenner, 90210 star AnnaLynne McCord, Good Charlotte bad boy brothers Joel and Benji Madden, and some others.  Op’s customer has now become someone who may or may not have ever even seen the Pacific Ocean… but they are quite tuned in to the nightly lineup on ‘The WB’ Network.  All of this is not to mention the design asthetic of the newer lines themselves, which lack soul and creativity compared to the originals.  Granted there wasn’t nearly as much competition when Op came on the scene, but I have to think that the mentality of the brand at the time would have set their designs apart from the crowd.  This ad might as well be for [insert any active sports clothing company name here].  Where’s the love? And more importantly, where’s the corduroy?

Share

The Style of Michael

Wednesday, July 8th, 2009

The biggest news story of the past couple weeks (and probably the whole year) is the death of pop icon, music mogul, and unparalleled entertainer Michael Jackson.  As a penguin of the 80′s, this dramatic and unexpected event has rocked my world a little bit.  I won’t go on too long about MJ’s 40+ year career, his masterful songwriting, or his music’s ability to unite people of all races and cultures around a love for music, for energy, and for other people.  Since this is a style blog and I am The Style Penguin, I will honor Michael in a way befitting of my expertise.  After all, he was as unique a pioneer in the world of fashion as he was in music.

70s Style

70s Style

Michael Jackson’s style evolved over the years, almost in precise parallel with the growth of his career, the subsequent changes in his lifestyle and the way in which he was treated by the world.  The Jackson 5 era spanned such a young period for MJ that his style wasn’t his own, much like everything in his life at the time.  Even after his debut solo album, ‘Off the Wall’ came out in 1979, Michael was still under the watchful eye  and control of management and stylists.  Shortly thereafter, he became so famous and powerful that he began doing and wearing whatever he damn well pleased.

Michael Jackson’s reign as the KING OF POP which really peaked and held in the 80s, turned him into a king from a fashion standpoint as well.  His wardrobe choices for both on and off stage were ostentatious and regal-esque, many sequined, gold-chained, studded, pieces literally fit for royalty… and only royalty of a foreign country where jewels and excess is valued.  He looked like an ancient Egyptian king. Actually, I would contest that he began dressing more like a prince.  A rebellious, young prince flaunting his power over the kingdom… with a nose up to his dad (the King) as if to say “I do what I want.”

KING/Pharoah or Pop

KING/Pharoah of Pop

The amazing thing about this style choice is that it was somehow not seen or taken as a costume when Michael was the one wearing it.  Why don’t you try dressing up like Barnum, Bailey, or either of the Wringling Brothers and see if you can walk outside with confidence?  But look at MJ workin’ it – head-to-toe rhinestones, blacked out aviators, and a single silver glove. On the red carpet no less.

As the years progressed, the prince turned into a real king and the wardrobe followed suit.  The strong colors of black and red, contrasted by the gold embellishments and sparkle factor remained… but the look became refined, less costume-like and more of an identity.  It was as though Michael had become the man who he was once just ‘playing’ in an exaggerated game of dress-up.

MJ Announces 'This is It'

MJ Announces 'This is It'

In his last press conference in which Michael announced his final tour, ‘This Is It’, he was dressed in black fitted jeans and this shiny, satin fabric jacket with metallic embellishments.  Gold has been replaced with the more humbled  and refined silver. Real metal accessories are now embroidery-based.  The military style markings on his sleeves denote an element that he was quite fond of and proud to wear, as I’d say MJ’s style could be seen as a sort of cross between a Las Vegas showgirl… and a distinguished Army general. You can see this influence in the images from the 80′s above, as this characteristic of his style carried throughout his entire career.  A cross between a king and the men who would protect him – Jackson’s style allowed him to assume both roles.

Perhaps I feel a penguinic connection with Michael Jackson because his song made me feel so comfortable about bing both black AND white.  Either way, dissecting the fashion of my all-time favorite entertainer is really enjoyable.  Maybe I should go through each and every one of his fashion quirks and contributions, and discuss them one by one.   It’s too bad the sparkled glove didn’t catch on to the masses.

Share

Old Navy Grammar Lesson

Wednesday, July 1st, 2009

So I may be a style penguin, but I’m no snob when it comes to fashion.  You know I’ve got my eye on fast fashion, and I pop my beak into the occasional discount store too… scoping out what trends have trickled down into mass market fashion, and seeing how they’ve turned out after the long game of design ‘telephone’.

So this past week i took a spin through the local mall and found myself in Old Navy.  If I’m being honest (and I almost always am) I saw nothing of real interest to me. However, please take note of the shirt they were displaying in great prominence at the front of the store.

I love boys THAT recycle? Really?

I love boys THAT recycle? Really?

Now I applaud their efforts on the environmental front… coming straight out and professing their “love for boys that recycle”. However, does Old Navy also love boys who never passed the 4th Grade?  The word that refers to inanimate objects… not even dogs and cats are referred to using the word that - animals are living beings.  Attention Old Navy… you love boys WHO recycle! Isn’t it enough that your clothes have a tendency to make middle Americans look unattractive? Do you have to make them look stupid too?

And while we’re at it… here is a picture of the man WHO was standing in my shot as I was trying to snap the ebonics shirt.

And this man is married....

And this man is married....

Now I’m dropping the Old Navy bashing here, as I have no proof that this man’s ensemble was purchased at the store…. but I can tell you that whenever he purchased it, his arms must have been 4 inches shorter, and the same goes for his torso. This is not a fashionable, 3/4 length sleeve shirt folks.  This man washes and dries on high heat and doesn’t care what he looks like when he leaves the house.  That said, he was there with his wife and kids.  My point? Ladies, do everyone a favor… don’t let your man leave the house looking like this.

Oh, he moved too fast for me to get a shot of his feet – but he was wearing Birkenstocks. With socks.

Share

Future Fashion

Monday, June 29th, 2009

As I’m sure many of you know, Men’s Fashion Week in Milan has just wrapped up.  Instead of going through it day by day, I thought I would let it come to a close, digest it like the krill I had for breakfast, and bring you the highlights and my thoughts on the show as a whole – so that download may be the next few days.  Be prepared.

One thing we saw from the designers this week was a decisively futuristic feel.  Maybe this is the influence of the entertainment industry buzzing with the likes of Transformers, Star Trek, Terminator Salvation, etc….. I don’t know, but the future was in Milan this week.  Let’s take a look at how two different designers handled a similar feel:

Calvin Klein Black Attack

Calvin Klein Black Attack

Calvin Klein gives a futuristic flair to an otherwise classic, almost 50′s or 60′s laid back look.  Take the leather off this outerwear piece and you get Steve McQueen on the set of Bullitt, circa 1968.  The sunglasses also give the look a terminator feel, because they clearly weren’t around for Steve to wear.

Prada in Prints

Prada in Prints

Prada also jumps on the future train (or hovercraft) with a slightly less dramatic leap into tomorrowland.  Miuccia Prada’s take with this line shows much more intricacy in prints and patterns [as seen above], all the while keeping with a very monochromatic grayscale pallet.

Miuccia Prada vs. Italo Zucchelli CK

Miuccia Prada vs. Italo Zucchelli CK

In comparing these two lines – Prada’s designs are more of a classic take on the look of the future, whereas Italo Zucchelli’s designs for CK feel to me like a futuristic slant on otherwise classic pieces.  Take a look at each designers approach to the suit [directly above].  Both have a more casual flair, but CK makes a splash with color and contrast wheras Prada’s muted tones might seem dreary if not for the deep v pieces and interesting use of the sweater layer.  The ‘future’ in this look is not only in this unique neckline choice, but also the reflective and translucent fabrics.  For me, CK is more approachable, wearable, and fun.

I like what we’re seeing from both of these style mavens, and expect that the red carpet flaunters will too.

Share

Plaids may never go out.

Monday, May 18th, 2009

If you’ve entered a boutique or a department store in the past 6 months and paid even the slightest bit of attention, you’re well aware that plaid has been quite “in”. Perhaps you deduced that from the wall-to-wall cotton button downs in every madras and plaid under the sun… or maybe from the line of Nike shoes with plaid accents, or cotton woven dresses for women in every color combo. Regardless of what tipped you off, it’s good that you know now.

Patterns & Plaids for sale.

Patterns & Plaids for sale. [image © details

Truthfully, these pattern fabrics never go anywhere, they just go through cycles of prevalence and product categories.  Personally, I love ‘em.  Plaids, madras, herringbone patterns, gingham, seersucker, contrast colored cut corduroy, and everything in between.  Solids are great and allow you to express yourself with graphic art and intricate design patterns, but there’s nothing like matching a great staple solid piece with a hit of complexity introduced by a madras print. Or, sometimes even better is throwing in the textured contrast of a seersucker fabric or a cord.  I like to think about an outfit like a taco (what? you’ve never met a penguin who liked mexican food?)… what makes a taco so great is the mix of flavors and textures that compliment each other.  A burrito can be boring if every ingredient is soft and thick and feels the same in your mouth. But a taco mixes the crunchy shell with the soft beans, the strong taste of onion with the mild lettuce, tangy sour cream, salty cheese,  sweet tomato, and spicy salsa.  mmmm… i’m hungry.

Point is – go ahead and wear the crap out of all the pattern fabrics that are in the market right now, but don’t get carried away all at once… and don’t neglect your solids or your textured fabric pieces in the meantime.  If you do, they’ll be pissed at you when you go to grab em outta the closet after summer ends.

Share